Pasport
- Nomer razdela po KMGV — 2010 g. — 8.3.53
Polyarnyy Ural, gornyy massiv Ray-Iz, dolina reki Sob'
- Naimenovanie vershiny: 1008,0 Ray-Iz (S malyy)
vysota: 1008,0 marut: po severoy stene central'noy skalnoy bashni severo-zapadnogo grebnya
- Kategoriya slozhnosti: predlagaetsya ZAз, pv.
- Kharakter maruta — zimniy.
- Perepad vysot maruta: 728 m
- Protyazhennost' maruta: 1220 m
- Protyazhennost' uchastkov naibol'shey kat. sl.:
1 k. s. — 1 uchastok — 300 m, 2 k. s. — 5 uchastkov — 850 m, 3 — 50 m, 4 — 0 m, 5 — 0 m, 6 — 0 m
- Srednyaya krutizna: osnovnoy chasti maruta — 65°.
vsego marshruta — 50°. 9. Ispol'zovano kyuch'yev: Ispol'zovano vsego na marshrute:
- skalnykh krych'yev — 10,
- zakladok — 11,
- shlyamburnykh stacionarnykh — 0,
- ITO — 0,
- shlyamburnykh syemnykh — 0. Ostavleno «krych'yev» na marshrute: vsego — 0; v t.ch. shlyamburnykh — 0.
- Vykhod na marshrut — 7:00, 7 marta 2011 g.
Vykhod na vershinu — 14:15, 7 marta 2011 g. Vozvraschenie v BL — 17:00, 7 marta 2011 g
- Khodovykh chasov komandy: — 10 ch.
- Rukovoditel': Bernackiy Sergey Igorevich (MS, instr. 1 kat., Ekaterinburg).
Uchastniki:
- E. Burcev (3-y sp. razryad, Syktyvkar)
- A. Kruglov (3-y sp. razryad, Vologda)
- D. Fal'sh (3-y sp. razryad, Moskovskaya oblast', p. Shikhovskoy)
- Trener: Zhuravlyov Sergey Vasilyevich, zvanie — KMS, instruktor-metodist 1-y kategorii.
Opisanie vershiny
Vershina Rayiz (Severnyy malyy) nakhoditsya v Yamalo-Nenenckom Nacional'nom okruge (YANAO) Tyumenskoy oblasti, Ural'skogo federal'nogo okruga RF, v 30 km na yugo-vostok ot polustanka 110 km (byvshiy poselok Polyarnyy), v doline ruch'ya Nyrdvomen-Shor (krupnyy pravoberezhnyy pritok r. Sob'), na vostochnykh sklonakh Polyarnogo Urala, yavlyaetsya krayney severnoy vershinoy stolovoy gory Rayiz. Vershina kupoloobraznaya, vysota — 1108,0 m.
Vershina Rayiz (Severnyy malyy) mozhet byt' obyektom uchebno-sportivnykh voskhozhdeniy, tak kak imeet:
- ryad vyrazhennykh skalynykh grebney,
- karovye rebra severogo sklona,
- severo-zapadnyy karovyy cirk severogo sklona.
Nazvanie gory — oficial'noe, est' na kartakh Polyarnogo Urala, orograficheskoe utochnenie vershiny (Severnyy malyy) dano dlya udobstva orientirovki al'pinistov, tak kak osnovnaya vershina Rayiz — stolovaya gora s obshirnym vershinnym plato (okolo 26 km v diametre) — nizhe Rayiza Severnogo i nizhe Rayiza Severnogo malogo.
Opisanie marshruta: «po severoy stene central'noy skal'noy bashne severo-zapadnogo grebnya (zimniy)».
Marshrut: (po severnoy stene central'noy skal'noy bashni severo-zapadnogo grebnya (zimniy)) — kharakternyy zimniy uchebno-trenirovochnyy marshrut 3A kat. sl., imeyushchiy minimal'nyy nabor prirodnykh prepyatstviy. Prokhozhdenie etogo marshruta imeet ne tol'ko esteticheskoe, no i sportivno-prakticheskoe znachenie, tak kak pozvolyaet v ramkakh voskhozhdenia otrabotat':
- priyemy strakhovki;
- priyemy samostrakhovki na slozhnom skal'nom rel'efe.
Marshrut logichen v orientirovanii, obyektivno bezopasen v zimnee vremy, chto pozvolyaet provodit' uchebno-sportivnye i sportivnye voskhozhdenia.
Snaryazhenie
Dlya soversheniya voskhozhdenia v sostave uchebno-sportivnogo otdelenia iz 6 chelovek (5 uchastnikov + instruktor) na marshrute neobkhodimo sleduyushchee special'noe snaryazhenie:
Lichnoe:
- Tabel'noe
- Koshki
- Ledorub — obyzatel'no
Obshchestvennoe:
- Veryovka osnovnaya 10 mm — 3×50 m
- Zakladnye elementy — 12 sht. (dva komplekta)
- Krych'ya skal'nye — 8 sht. (zhelatel'no korotkie gorizontal'nye i krasnoyarskie yakorya)
- Ledobury — 3 sht.
- Ottyazhki — 8 sht.
- Petli — 6 sht.
- Skal'nyy molotok — 1 sht.
- Aysbayl — 1 sht.
Podkhod
Ot bazovogo lagerya — «Balki geologov «Ruchey Nefritovyy»» doyti po kuluaru do kamnya-ostrova. Na kamne udobnoe mesto dlya organizacii svyzok.
Tekhnicheskaya chast'
Vnachale ot kamnya-ostrova (mesta organizacii svyzok) podyom po kuluaru, zatem po osypnoy polke na skal'nyy massiv «Treugol'nik». Dalee vverkh po vtoromu skal'nomu «korytu», raspolozhennomu mezhdu vtorym i tret'im kontrforsom steny.
Skal'naya stenka sredney slozhnosti, so slozhnym uchastkom «Stupen'» v verkhney chasti. Po stenke vykhod na polku pod stenu «Zerkalo» i travers vpravo po khodu. Zatem podyom po skal'noy stenke srednego urovnya slozhnosti — v verkhney chasti neprodolzhitel'nyy slozhnyy uchastok kamin.
Posle prokhozhdenia kamina:
- po nebol'shim slabovyrazhennym polkam proyti nemnogo vpravo
- voyti v uzkiy skal'nyy kuluar
Eto klyuch marshruta. Ochen' malo mest dlya organizacii promezhutochnykh tochek strakhovki. V centre kuluara sleva — polka pod navisayushchim karnizom, pozvoly, organizovat' stanciyu. Dalee vykhod na greben'. Na vykhode — sneznyy karniz, kotoryy prikhoditsya prokapyvat'.
Posle vykhoda na greben':
- dvizhenie vverkh po razrushennym zasnezhennym skalam
- do krutogo sneznogo sklona — vykhod na predverinnoe plecho (preodolevaetsya v tri takta)
Posle vykhoda na predverinnoe plecho podyom na vershinnyy kupol ne predstavlyaet slozhnosti.
Spusk s vershiny po severomu grebnyu po marshrutu 1B kat. sl.

Uchastok R0–R1 — podyom ot bazovogo lagerya «Balki geologov „Ruchey Nefritovyy“» do kamnya-ostrova.
- Dlina — 300 m
- Krutizna — 30–40 gradusov
- Uroven' slozhnosti — 1–, 2+ kat. sl.
- Dvizhenie — odnovremennoe
- Samostrakhovka — s pomoshch'yu ledoruba
Uchastok R0–R1 — podyom po sneznomu sklonu ot bazovogo lagerya «Balki geologov „Ruchey Nefritovyy“» na kamen'-ostrov. Dlina uchastka — 300 m. Krutizna — 30–40 gradusov. Uroven' slozhnosti — kat. sl. Dvizhenie — odnovremennoe. Samostrakhovka — s pomoshch'yu ledoruba.
Uchastok R1–R2 — podyom v nachalo skal'noy syemki. Snezno-ledovyy sklon. Dlina — 200 m. Krutizna — 35–45 gradusov. Uroven' slozhnosti — 2–, 2+ kat. sl. Dvizhenie odnovremennoe, strakhovka s pomoshch'yu ledoruba.
Uchastok R2–R3 — podyom na skalu «Treugol'nik» pod nachalo tekhnicheskoy chasti marshruta. Zasnezhennaya skal'naya polka. Dlina — 100 m. Krutizna — 45 gradusov. Uroven' slozhnosti — 2– kat. sl. Dvizhenie odnovremennoe. Samostrakhovka s pomoshch'yu ledoruba.
Uchastok R3–R4 — prokhozhdenie kosoy steny so stupen'yu. Naklonnaya skal'naya stenka, monolit. Dlina — 50 m, krutizna — 45°. Kat. sl. — 2+Б. V verkhney chasti — skal'naya stupen':
- Dlina — 5 m,
- Krutizna — 90°,
- Kat. sl. — 3+Б. Dvizhenie poperemennoe, vzaimodeystvie svyzok. Ispol'zovano:
- Krych'yev — 3 sht.,
- Zakladnykh — 8 sht.
Uchastok R4–R5 — travers pod skaloy «Zerkalo» i prokhozhdenie naklonnoy stenki s kaminom. Naklonnaya skal'naya stenka. Obshchaya dlina — 65 m, krutizna — 50°, kat. sl. — 2+Б. V nizhney chasti — travers po polke:
- Dlina polki — 15 m,
- Krutizna — 35°,
- Uroven' slozhnosti — 2+ kat. sl. V verkhney chasti — kamin:
- Dlina — 6 m,
- Krutizna — 90°,
- Uroven' slozhnosti — 3+ kat. sl. Dvizhenie — poperemennoe, vzaimodeystvie svyzok.
Uchastok R5–R6 — Vykhod po skal'nomu zasnezhennomu kuluaru na vershinnoe plato severo-zapadnogo grebnya. Krutoy zasnezhennyy skal'nyy kuluar. Dlina — 100 m. Krutizna — 45–55°. V centre kuluara (sleva) — udobnaya skal'naya polka («Polka pod karnizom») dlya promezhutochnoy stancii. V verkhney chasti — skal'naya stupen':
- Dlina — 3 m,
- Krutizna — 90°,
- Uroven' slozhnosti — 3B kat. sl. Dvizhenie poperemennoe, vzaimodeystvie svyzok.
Uchastok R6–R7 (na foto ne viden) — podyom po severo-zapadnomu grebnyu na vershinu 1108,0 (Rayiz Severnyy malyy). Shirokiy greben', na yuznoy chasti (sprava po khodu) — sneznye karnizy. Dlina uchastka — 500 m, krutizna — 25–35 gradusov. Uroven' slozhnosti — 1–, 1+ kat. sl. Dvizhenie — odnovremennoe.
Polyarnyy Ural. Gornyy massiv Rayiz. Gora — Rayiz. Vershina — 1108,0 (Rayiz
Severnyy malyy). Marshrut: «Po severoy stene central'noy skal'noy bashne severo-zapadnogo grebnya» (Bashnya «Bernackogo»). Uroven' slozhnosti — 3A kat. sl.
(Zimniy)
Vershina Rayiz (Severnyy Malyy)
R6–R7 — prokhozhdenie predverinnogo grebnya i vykhod na vershinu. Zasnezhennyy greben'.
Dlina — 500 m. Krutizna — 35°. Uroven' slozhnosti — 2B kat. sl.
V seredine sneznyy vzlet na predverinnoe plecho:
- Dlina — 50 m
- Krutizna — 50°
- Uroven' slozhnosti — 2B kat. sl.
Dvizhenie odnovremennoe, pri vykhode na predverinnoe plecho grebnya — poperemennoe. Strakhovka s pomoshch'yu ledoruba.
R5–R6 — Prokhozhdenie uzkogo skal'nogo kuluara s polkoy pod karnizom i so stupen'yu v verkhney chasti. Sneg, led.
- Uzkiy skal'nyy kuluar
- Dlina — 100 m
- Krutizna — 45°
- Uroven' slozhnosti — 3 — kat. sl.
V centre kuluara (sleva) udobnaya dlya strakhuyushchego polka pod skal'nym karnizom. Pri vykhode na greben' — skal'naya stupen', stenka 3 m, 90°, 3+ kat. sl. Dvizhenie poperemennoe. Organizaciya peril. Ispol'zovano krych'yev — 3, zakladnykh — 0, ledoburov — 2.
R3–R4 — Travers pod skaloy «Zerkalo» i prokhozhdenie naklonnoy stenki s kaminom. Skaly. Monolit. Dlina polki — 15 m. Krutizna — 35°. Uroven' slozhnosti — 2+ kat. sl.
- Skal'naya stenka 50 m, 50°, 2+ kat. sl.
- V verkhney chasti — kamin 6 m, 90°, 3+ kat. sl.
- Dvizhenie poperemennoe. Organizaciya peril.
- Ispol'zovano krych'yev — 2, zakladnykh — 3.
R3–R4 — Prokhozhdenie kosoy steny so stupen'yu. Skaly. Monolit. Dlina 50 m. Krutizna — 45°. Uroven' slozhnosti — 2+ kat. sl.
V verkhney chasti steny stupen' — skal'naya stenka 5 m, 90°, 3+ kat. sl. Dvizhenie poperemennoe.
Organizaciya peril. Ispol'zovano:
- krych'yev — 3
- zakladnykh — 8
R2–R3 — Podyom po naklonnoy polke pod bastion bashni na skaly «Treugol'nik». Naklonnaya osypnaya polka. Dlina 100 m. Krutizna — 45°. Uroven' slozhnosti — 2-K. S. Dvizhenie odnovremennoe. Samostrakhovka s pomoshch'yu ledoruba. Ispol'zovano:
- krych'yev — 0
- zakladnykh — 0
R1–R2 — Podyom po kuluaru k naklonnoy polke skaly «Treugol'nik». Sneznyy sklon. Dlina 200 m. Krutizna 35–45°. Uroven' slozhnosti — 2-, 2+ K. S. Dvizhenie odnovremennoe. Samostrakhovka s pomoshch'yu ledoruba.
R0–R1 — podyom po sneznomu sklonu do kamnyaostrova. Sneznyy sklon. Dlina 300 m. Krutizna 30–40 gradusov. Uroven' slozhnosti — 1+, 2- kat. sl.
Uchastok R3–R4 — prokhozhdenie kosoy steny so stupen'yu. Skaly. Monolit. Dlina 50 m. Krutizna — 45 gradusov. Uroven' slozhnosti — 2+ kat. sl. V verkhney chasti steny stupen'
- Skal'naya stenka 5 m, 90 gradusov, 3+ kat. sl.
Dvizhenie poperemennoe. Organizaciya peril.
Uchastok R4–R5 — Prokhozhdenie zasnezhennogo uzkogo kuluara s polkoy pod karnizom i so skal'noy stupen'yu v verkhney chasti. Sneg, led. Uzkiy skal'nyy kuluar. Dlina — 100 m. Krutizna — 45°. Uroven' slozhnosti — 3 — kat. sl.
- V centre kuluara (sleva) udobnaya dlya strakhuyushchego polka pod skal'nym karnizom
- Pri vykhode na greben' — skal'naya stupen'
R5–R6 — Podyom na vershinu 1108 (Rayiz Severnyy malyy).
- R5 — vershina central'noy bashni severo-zapadnogo grebnya.
- R6 — vershina 1108,0 (Rayiz Severnyy malyy).
- Uchastok R5–R6 — podyom po severo-zapadnomu grebnyu.
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