Ascent History: classic

Evgenii LepikhinJuly 27, 2021

Small group · Group member · Led some technical pitches · Roped, Solo with self-belay, Free solo · Pre-fixed ropes on part of the route · Siege style · 16h

Crux passedNormalS6O3P3

65° × 5.5 kmM3+ × 1.3 km

Turned back from an altitude of 6500-6600 m. Difficult weather conditions, hurricane.

EL

Evgenii LepikhinAugust 3, 2018

Small group · Group member · Led some technical pitches · Roped, Solo with self-belay, Free solo · Pre-fixed ropes on part of the route · Siege style

Crux passedNormalS6O3P3

65° × 5.5 kmM3+ × 1.3 km

5 attempts, to 6500; acclimatization problems, blown off by wind during the ascent

АП

Алексей ПотоцкийJuly 19, 2008

Pair · Guide / Instructor · Pre-fixed ropes on most of the route · Siege style

Completed fullyNormal

S

SummitMateAugust 18, 2000

Small group · Siege style · 18h

Completed fullyHarderS6O4

45° × 4.3 km

S

SummitMateAugust 15, 2000

Pair · Alpine style · 30h 30min

Completed fullyHarderS5O4P4

20° × 8.3 km

S

SummitMateAugust 15, 1998

Small group · Alpine style · 21h 20min

Completed fullyHarderS6O4

35° × 9 km

S

SummitMateAugust 9, 1998

Pair · Alpine style · 12h 30min

Completed fullyNormalS6O4

65° × 3.6 km35° × 1 kmIV × 400 m30° × 400 m

S

SummitMateAugust 10, 1996

Pair · Alpine style · 9h

Completed fullyHarderS5O3P4

40° × 1.1 km

S

SummitMateFebruary 8, 1992

Large group · Siege style · 28h

Completed fullyMuch harderS6O4P4

50°50° × 40 m45°

S

SummitMateAugust 7, 1990

Small group · Alpine style · 13h 30min

Completed fullyNormalS6O4

40° × 3.8 kmV × 340 m

S

SummitMateAugust 11, 1982

Large group · Alpine style · 47h 50min

Completed fullyHarderS6O3P4

IV × 300 mII × 120 m30° × 750 m50° × 100 mV × 480 mIV × 210 m+1

S

SummitMateDate unknown

Completed fullyS6O3P2