Conditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
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Korona Peak
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
Conditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
9 sections · 412 m
Translated from Russian
Start above the bergschrund, climb right toward a distinct left turn on the ice, bypassing a large rock island
Translated from Russian
Climb the ice runnel leading left until blocked by rock. Normal ice, may be covered with snow firn, impairing confident foot placements.
Translated from Russian
Right through easy rock that leads to a ledge.
Translated from Russian
Diagonal abseil (Dülfersitz) rightward toward the main ice couloir of the route. Instead of the abseil, a simple traverse right + down is possible. Pitch: ice or deep snow after snowfall. Next belay station directly below the main ice couloir heading up.
Translated from Russian
Climb up the ice couloir, which gradually becomes even steeper approaching the crux. Landmark — a distinct narrow ice runnel above that appears overhanging from below. At the end of the pitch, before the first ice wall of the crux, the belay station is on the right! (sluffs pour down on the left)
Around 75–85° with short vertical steps: solid technique and confident two-tool work are required.
Translated from Russian
Ice wall 2–3 meters wide with small steps underfoot. After it the ice briefly eases off and the main crux of the route begins.
Near-vertical ice at 85–90°: comfortable positions are rare and imprecise tool placements quickly build up fatigue.
Translated from Russian
A nearly vertical narrow ice couloir, minimum width 0.5 m, rock on both sides — a fall is undesirable. Protection preferably on 10 cm screws, though we managed to fully drive 17 cm screws in a couple of places. Objective hazard of the pitch — sluffs running down the couloir after snowfall, so doing the route after heavy snowfalls is undesirable.
Translated from Russian
After the narrow ice crux, a normal ice pitch of moderate steepness. The belay station should preferably be placed on the left at the exit of this pitch — less will shower down on the belayer from the leader on the final pitch above.
Low-angle to vertical terrain with noticeable technical tool work.
Translated from Russian
An extremely unpleasant pitch consisting of dirt and ice mixed with stones. Protection is difficult due to broken terrain. Managed to drive two poor pitons. Snow makes it difficult to find reliable tool placements.
Translated from Russian
Weather: partial visibility — "whiteout", heavy snow on the route and moderate on the approach, frequent sluffs at the crux. Unpleasant finish — thawed ice on the last 10 meters turned into bad mixed with no protection.