Ascent on "правой части З стены"

Asan

Karavshin · Batken Region · Kyrgyzstan

S

SummitMateAugust 10, 2004

Completed fullyHarderMain line

Conditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.

Ascent Format

Team Composition:PairAscent Style:Siege styleMoving time:75h

Subjective ratings

S6Seriousness

Multi-day route, usually around 2–5 days. Planned bivouacs, high self-reliance, difficult retreat; a fast exit and outside help are not guaranteed.

O3Objective danger

Sustained moderate danger. Good timing and conditions help, but do not remove the risk entirely.

P3Fall consequences

Mixed picture: recurring run-outs, dubious placements, slabs, ledges or swings. A fall may end in injury.

Route sections

5 sections · 1078 m · 26 pitches

Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):VSustained difficulty:VMaximum angle:85°Sustained angle:65°Length:170 m3 pitches
Aid
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):A3Sustained difficulty:A2Maximum angle:90°Sustained angle:90°Length:176 m7 pitches
Many dubious or thin placements in a row; precision and patience are needed, with little margin for error.
Aid
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):A2Sustained difficulty:A1Maximum angle:90°Sustained angle:80°Length:210 m6 pitches
Placements are generally good and secure, though they require some searching and deliberate placement technique.
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):VISustained difficulty:V+Maximum angle:90°Sustained angle:85°Length:89 m2 pitches
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):V+Sustained difficulty:IVMaximum angle:90°Sustained angle:55°Length:433 m8 pitches

Ascent history

Route Difficulty

Summary

Ascent Format

Subjective ratings

Route sections

Rating contribution