Ascent on "Lou"

Summary

Ascent Format

Subjective ratings

1. 1

   Snow

   Mandatory section

   Maximum angle:40°Sustained angle:30°Length:100 m sust. · 300 m total

   Translated from Russian

   Approach to the bergschrund.

2. 2

   Alpine ice

   Mandatory section

   Key difficulty (crux):AI1+Sustained difficulty:AI1+Length:20 m sust. · 60 m total1 pitch

   Translated from Russian

   Start of the ice after the bergschrund

3. 3

   Alpine ice

   Mandatory section

   Key difficulty (crux):AI2+Sustained difficulty:AI2Length:20 m sust. · 40 m total1 pitch

   Translated from Russian

   First crux. Climbed slightly right of the couloir.

4. 4

   Alpine ice

   Mandatory section

   Key difficulty (crux):AI1+Sustained difficulty:AI1+Length:60 m sust. · 500 m total10 pitches

   Translated from Russian

   Main couloir to the exit onto the ridge

5. 5

   Rock

   Mandatory section

   Key difficulty (crux):IISustained difficulty:ILength:10 m sust. · 30 m total1 pitch

   Translated from Russian

   Traverse along the ridge into the cirque

6. 6

   Snow

   Mandatory section

   Maximum angle:40°Sustained angle:35°Length:10 m sust. · 40 m total

   Translated from Russian

   Approach to the second crux — the wall

7. 7

   Rock

   Mandatory section

   Key difficulty (crux):6bSustained difficulty:6aLength:10 m sust. · 25 m total1 pitch

   Translated from Russian

   Sloping smooth rock with inclined ledges, often covered with ice. Climbing in crampons and with ice tools. Protection on anchors. There are a couple of fixed pitons. At the exit, belay station on a chockstone.

8. 8

   Snow

   Mandatory section

   Maximum angle:35°Sustained angle:20°Length:40 m sust. · 200 m total

   Translated from Russian

   Long ridge with traverses and descents. Approach to the couloir. It leads to the Barbera saddle.

9. 9

   Snow

   Mandatory section

   Maximum angle:45°Sustained angle:35°Length:10 m sust. · 40 m total

   Translated from Russian

   Couloir before the saddle. Leads onto the ridge, from which descent to the Barbera saddle

10. 10

    Rock

    Mandatory section

    Key difficulty (crux):IISustained difficulty:IILength:5 m sust. · 25 m total1 pitch

    Translated from Russian

    From the ridge, descent to the saddle, onto which the Barbera 5B couloir exits. Easy rock. On the saddle, belay station on a chockstone. Along the way there are slings.

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