Conditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
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Korona Peak
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
АПConditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
Part-of-the-day route or a short day from base. Approach and descent are broadly straightforward, route-finding is rarely a problem.
Sustained moderate danger. Good timing and conditions help, but do not remove the risk entirely.
High consequences of a fall on important terrain: poor protection, long run-outs, weak belays, or the risk of landing on a ledge or lower terrain.
6 sections · 380 m · 9 pitches
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Lower part of the ice along the left couloir until the transition to the right couloir.
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Transition to the right couloir along a ledge.
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Approach to the crux.
Near-vertical ice at 85–90°: comfortable positions are rare and imprecise tool placements quickly build up fatigue.
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Crux of the route, narrow ice corner.
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Upper part of the couloir.
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Exit to the col.
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On the exit to the col, after the crux, there is no ice. The last 10 meters are climbing on loose rock without protection.