Start from the bergschrund
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Korona Peak
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
Ascent history
АПFull-day route. A fast retreat is no longer always possible; route-finding and descent need attention, a delay leads to a late finish.
Serious objective danger over a noticeable part of the route or descent. The window of good conditions is fairly narrow, and the cost of a mistake is noticeably higher.
High consequences of a fall on important terrain: poor protection, long run-outs, weak belays, or the risk of landing on a ledge or lower terrain.
9 sections · 1110 m · 17 pitches
Translated from Russian
Start from the bergschrund
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Ice couloir, approach beneath the ice formation. Climb the left side, closer to the rocks.
Around 60–70°: full steep ice climbing, but moves read clearly and protection options are good.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
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Approach to the rock wall.
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From the ice, exit onto rock and traverse an inclined corner right-to-left to reach the vertical wall. Protection unreliable.
Many dubious or thin placements in a row; precision and patience are needed, with little margin for error.
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Vertical slabs before exiting to the ice formation. Anchors, skyhooks. Two bolts for intermediate protection. Belay station on 2 bolts.
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Ice formation. Delicate, thin in places with rock showing through. Protection sporadically reliable. Belay stations under fire. Strenuous arm climbing, very few rests.
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
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Walking approach along the snowfield to the bergschrund, toward the second tower.
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Ice slope leading to the saddle between the 2nd and 3rd towers. Belay stations on rock islands and on rocks left of the route. Stations on bolts.
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Exit to the summit. Easy rock climbing.
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First ascent