Ascent on "СВ ребру плеча п. Чапаева"

Khan Tengri

Khrebet Sarydzhaz · Issyk-Kul Region · Kyrgyzstan

SummitMateJuly 18, 1999

Completed fullyMain line

Ascent Format

Team Composition:PairMoving time:20h

S6Seriousness

Multi-day route, usually around 2–5 days. Planned bivouacs, high self-reliance, difficult retreat; a fast exit and outside help are not guaranteed.

O2Objective danger

There are isolated dangerous spots, but they are short or well controlled by start time and line choice. The risk is usually clear and local.

4 sections · 3010 m · 21 pitches

Snow
Mandatory section
Maximum angle:60°Sustained angle:35°Length:1.5 km13 pitches
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):VSustained difficulty:IVLength:1.6 km12 pitches
Snow
Mandatory section
Maximum angle:40°Sustained angle:20°Length:850 m4 pitches
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):VSustained difficulty:IIILength:1.4 km9 pitches