From the bergschrund to the ice shelf
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Pik Semionova Tien-Shanskogo
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
Full-day route. A fast retreat is no longer always possible; route-finding and descent need attention, a delay leads to a late finish.
There are isolated dangerous spots, but they are short or well controlled by start time and line choice. The risk is usually clear and local.
Generally controllable, but with gaps, awkward placements or isolated sections where the consequences can be unpleasant.
4 sections · 480 m · 11 pitches
Translated from Russian
From the bergschrund to the ice shelf
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
Translated from Russian
Start from the shelf and exit onto the upper ice slope
Translated from Russian
Upper ice slope, exit below the summit ridge
Translated from Russian
Start up the couloir and then after 15 meters exit left onto the ridge. Protection on features, belay station on a horn, features are heavily broken up, delicate climbing.
Translated from Russian
The lower part of the route has become somewhat shorter, by about half a rope length. Due to active glacier melting, the bergschrund line has moved higher. On the approach to the Bergschrund there are fairly large crevasses. Enter in an arc, trending left.
