Ascent on "З стене"

Звездный

Ergaki · Krasnoyarsk Krai · Russian Federation

S

SummitMateJuly 25, 2024

Completed fullyHarderMain line

Conditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.

Ascent Format

Team Composition:PairAscent Style:Alpine styleMoving time:11h

Subjective ratings

O1Objective danger

Objective danger is minimal and does not define the character of the route. Dangerous spots are either rare or insignificant.

P2Fall consequences

Generally controllable, but with gaps, awkward placements or isolated sections where the consequences can be unpleasant.

Route sections

7 sections · 645 m · 16 pitches

Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):IVSustained difficulty:IVMaximum angle:45°Sustained angle:45°Length:50 m sust. · 100 m total2 pitches
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):VSustained difficulty:VMaximum angle:65°Sustained angle:60°Length:50 m sust. · 90 m total2 pitches
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):III+Sustained difficulty:III+Maximum angle:45°Sustained angle:45°Length:80 m sust. · 80 m total2 pitches
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):VISustained difficulty:VIMaximum angle:90°Sustained angle:80°Length:130 m sust. · 170 m total4 pitches
Aid
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):A3Sustained difficulty:A2Maximum angle:90°Sustained angle:90°Length:100 m sust. · 120 m total4 pitches
Many dubious or thin placements in a row; precision and patience are needed, with little margin for error.
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):VSustained difficulty:VMaximum angle:90°Sustained angle:90°Length:40 m sust. · 40 m total1 pitch
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):IIISustained difficulty:IIIMaximum angle:50°Sustained angle:50°Length:45 m sust. · 45 m total1 pitch

Ascent history

Route Difficulty

Summary

Ascent Format

Subjective ratings

Route sections

Rating contribution