Ascent on "ЮВ гребню"

August 4, 1984

Completed fullyMain line

Ascent Format

Team Composition:Small groupAscent Style:Alpine styleMoving time:14h

S4Seriousness

Big alpine day. Long mandatory section, non-trivial retreat or descent; a pacing or line mistake can already push you into darkness.

O3Objective danger

Sustained moderate danger. Good timing and conditions help, but do not remove the risk entirely.

P3Fall consequences

Mixed picture: recurring run-outs, dubious placements, slabs, ledges or swings. A fall may end in injury.

4 sections · 550 m · 8 pitches

Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):IISustained difficulty:IIMaximum angle:35°Sustained angle:30°Length:200 m sust. · 200 m total1 pitch
Snow
Mandatory section
Maximum angle:40°Sustained angle:35°Length:80 m sust. · 80 m total1 pitch
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):IVSustained difficulty:IVMaximum angle:70°Sustained angle:55°Length:80 m sust. · 120 m total2 pitches
Rock
Mandatory section
Key difficulty (crux):VSustained difficulty:IIIMaximum angle:70°Sustained angle:45°Length:150 m sust. · 230 m total5 pitches