Conditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
An ascent that differs from the main line.
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Korona Peak
Uchitel glacier and Korona ridge area · Chuy Region · Kyrgyzstan
АПConditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
An ascent that differs from the main line.
Part-of-the-day route or a short day from base. Approach and descent are broadly straightforward, route-finding is rarely a problem.
There are isolated dangerous spots, but they are short or well controlled by start time and line choice. The risk is usually clear and local.
A fall is usually well controlled: reliable gear close by, clear belays, terrain that does not lead to hitting ledges or the ground.
1 section · 60 m · 1 pitches
Around 60–70°: full steep ice climbing, but moves read clearly and protection options are good.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
Translated from Russian
More interesting than the classic and approximately 1.5 pitches shorter
Translated from Russian
Via a narrow ice chimney to the right of the main line