Conditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
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Бубис +4
Tsey · Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti · Georgia
SConditions made the route slightly harder: worse ice, softer snow, patches of wet rock, a less convenient bergschrund. But the line was still recognizably the same.
Multi-day route, usually around 2–5 days. Planned bivouacs, high self-reliance, difficult retreat; a fast exit and outside help are not guaranteed.
Sustained moderate danger. Good timing and conditions help, but do not remove the risk entirely.
4 sections · 440 m · 8 pitches
Around 60–70°: full steep ice climbing, but moves read clearly and protection options are good.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
About 70–80°: already steep ice where confident front-pointing and careful tool work are needed.
Around 75–85° with short vertical steps: solid technique and confident two-tool work are required.
Around 60–70°: full steep ice climbing, but moves read clearly and protection options are good.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.