Turned around before the crux — due to conditions, time, or another reason. The crux was not climbed and not seen up close; less informative than "Crux passed", but still useful for history.
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Jengish Chokusu
Zvezdochka · Issyk-Kul Region · Kyrgyzstan
ELTurned around before the crux — due to conditions, time, or another reason. The crux was not climbed and not seen up close; less informative than "Crux passed", but still useful for history.
Expedition scale: many days on route, strong remoteness or nearly a point of no return. Retreat, descent and rescue become a major project of their own.
Objective danger is one of the defining features of the route. Without very good conditions the line becomes effectively unacceptable.
A fall on the crux or a mandatory section is barely controllable: protection is absent or unreliable, consequences can be catastrophic.
9 sections · 1200 m
Ice up to about 50–60° without a distinct technical problem; basic crampon and tool skills are needed.
Without an angle, AI1–AI2 are counted with reduced confidence.
For AI1–AI2 a grade alone often isn't enough. If the ice isn't steep, the angle matters: 20°, 40° and 60° are very different terrain.
Translated from Russian
Turned back from Dikiy Pass (5100). Cold + frostbite