Patagonia: First Ascent of Tarock Route in Cochamó Valley

Mirko Grasso from Italy and Jernej Kruder from Czechia have established a new route in Chile's Cochamo Valley. The 750-meter route has a difficulty of up to 7c.

Cochamo Valley, despite its growing popularity, remains wild and offers excellent opportunities for climbers. A great illustration of Patagonia's potential beyond the well-known peaks such as Torres del Paine and Fitz Roy.

Grasso and Kruder set up base camp in La Junta, in the heart of the valley, at the beginning of the year. La Junta is a two-hour drive from the Chilean town of Puerto Montt and a three-hour walk along the trail. During a short weather window, the climbers identified a suitable line on the summit of Cerro Valvalun, which they described as the most imposing peak in the area.

When establishing the route, the climbers used different styles. At first, they placed bolts and pitons, and then climbed the route free solo. It took them two weather windows to achieve their goal. During the first, they climbed the route with bolts in three days. The route can be divided into two parts: the first passes through smooth, technically complex slabs and requires thoughtful protection and careful climbing, the second part is characterized by cracks and corners, as well as reliable climbing on granite.

"The upper part is a pleasure: incredible cracks, always available for climbing, never boring," the climbers noted. On the first ascent, they used 29 bolts and 15 pitons for advancement and protection, as well as classic protection points.

During the third weather window, Grasso and Kruder climbed the route free solo, again in three days. The most challenging moment was the final stage. "It was dirty and wet, Jernej Kruder started resolutely, cheering himself on with shouts," Grasso said.

The route was named Tarock after the card game that the climbers played while waiting for suitable weather. The climbers were supported during the ascent by Czech photographer and filmmaker Vladek Zumr.

Source: ExplorersWeb ↗, Angela Benavides