Sokol — 13

Authors: Alexander Kuzmitsky, Moscow, Sergey Nadtochy (Terrorist), Simferopol

Guidebook Sokol

Sector 4 (southwestern wall)

This sector contains routes: "Galochka" 3B, "Ryzhiy ugol" 5A, "Dva karniza" 5A, "Yaponskiy sadik" 5A, "Vechnaya molodost" 3B, "Grebnevaya dvojka" 2A, and some others.

The approaches are fairly simple: from the pocket near the road, above "Bukhta lyubvi", up the trail, under the wall (detailed descriptions of approaches and descents will be given in a separate material).

We haven't gotten around to describing routes such as:

• "Legenda"
• "Skazka"
• "Grot"

These are mythical routes, little is known about their existence. They need to be climbed and described anew. They are not included in our descriptions, but we plan to provide descriptions of these routes in the next edition of the guide.

Galochka 3B cat. dif. 2B

R0–R2: 100 m, 4B. Over simple rocks with self-belaying. Stations on trees.

R2–R3: 50 m, 5C–6A. Up a diagonal crack (the so-called "galochka"). Belaying is easy to organize - there are many pitons and bolts along the climb. Station on a large tree.

R3–R4: 45 m, 5c–6a. Self-belaying + occasional bolts and pitons. Station on a tree.

R4–R5: 35 m, 5a. Self-belaying. Station on two bolts to the right of the "zhendarmer",

R5–R6: 35 m, 5b. Self-belaying + occasional pitons. Station on a bolt and piton on the ridge.

R6–R7: 25 m, 4c. No belaying. Station on one of the trees on the shelf behind the left bastion.

R7–R8: 50 m, 5a. Belaying mainly on pitons + self-belaying as needed. Station on a tree.

R8–R9: 50 m, 5c. From the tree, up and to the right, gradually moving left on pitons and bolts. Station on a bolt above a juniper bush (can be linked with a bolt above, 5 m away).

R9–R10: 40–45 m, 5a. Itinerary:

• Up and left through a bolt on slabs,
• Then to a large pine tree, left and up,
• After the pine tree, right and up - exit to the plateau on simple rocks,
• Station on oneself (can be made on a juniper).

Recommended equipment:

• Rope 50–60 m
• Set of nuts and cams
• 14–16 quickdraws
• 2 large and 3–4 small slings.

Overall impression:

A normal 3B, with an average level of climbing. Lots of crack climbing. The R3–R5 pitches can be climbed on the left side of the left bastion (this doesn't affect the overall difficulty).