Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.5

Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley.

2. Name of the peak: 1159.0 (Dinozavr Glavny)

height: 1159.0 m. Route: northern wall couloir

3. Category of difficulty: 2A category.
4. Character of the route — snow-ice.
5. Height difference of the route: 890 m
6. Length of the route: 5000 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of difficulty:

1 category — 2 sections — 2000 m, 2 category — 2 sections — 2000 m, 3 category — 3 sections — 0 m, 4 category — 0 sections — 0 m, 5 category — 0 sections — 0 m, 6 category — 0 m.

8. Average steepness: main part of the route — 65 degrees.

whole route — 55°. 9. Pitons used: Total used on the route:

• rock pitons — 0
• chocks — 0
• stationary pitons — 0
• ITO — 0
• removable pitons — 0. Pitons left on the route: total — 0; including stationary — 0.

10. Departure to the route — 6:00, July 5, 2006

Reached the summit — 12:00, July 5, 2006. Returned to the base camp — 14:00, July 5, 2006

11. Team's total climbing hours: — 8 hours.
12. Leader: V. Toropov (1st sports category, Syktyvkar).

Participants: P. Bondaruk (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar), Yu. Valuzhis (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar), O. Ermolin (2nd sports category, Syktyvkar).

13. Coach: Zhuravlev Sergey Vasilievich, rank — Candidate for Master of Sports, 1st category instructor-methodologist.

Description of the peak

Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny) — one of the peaks in the Raiiz mountain massif, located in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug (YaNAO), Tyumen Oblast, Urals Federal District, Russian Federation, on the eastern slopes of the Polar Urals, in the northwest of the Raiiz mountain massif, in the Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley.

Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny) — a distinctly pronounced mountain of the Raiiz massif, easily identifiable, visible from the Yeletskaya station, Polar Urals, and the 110 km halt.

The name — unofficial, but well-established in the tourist-alpinist community.

Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny) — is the most popular object for training and sports ascents in the Polar Urals. Multiple routes from 1B to 4A category of difficulty have been laid to the peak.

Route description

Route "Through the northern wall couloir (snow-ice)" — a characteristic training route of 2A category. Passing this route has not only aesthetic but also practical training value, as it allows to practice belaying and self-arrest techniques on snow-ice terrain within the ascent.

Equipment

To complete the ascent as part of a training and sports group of 6 people (5 participants + instructor), the following special equipment is required:

Personal:

• standard issue
• crampons
• ice axe

Group:

• 10 mm main rope — 3×50 m
• rock hammer — 2 pcs.
• rock pitons — 16 pcs.
• ice axe — 1 pc.
• chocks — 12 pcs.
• ice screws — 4 pcs.
• quickdraws — 10 pcs.
• slings — 10 pcs.

Approach

The ascent starts from the "Delta Nyrdvomen-Shora" campsite.

1. Ford the Nyrdvomen-Shor stream to the left bank.
2. Ascend to the couloir cone via boulders and mountain-tundra slope.
3. In summer, the couloir is not avalanche-prone.
4. Form teams and put on crampons.

Technical part:

1. Ascend the steepening slope and pass the "Gorloving" section — the narrowest part of the couloir.
2. After "Gorloving" — ascent up the steep snowy slope.
3. Ascend to the rocky tower via easy rocks.

The crux of the route: narrow and steep snowy slope — "Yazyk".

— Ascend "Yazyk" upwards, sticking to the right side (rockfall possible from the rocky tower on the left). — Move in three steps, organize belay stations using an ice axe. — At the edge of the snowfield, use ice screws or large boulders.

After ascending to the rocky tower — traverse right to reach the pre-summit plateau.

The summit is marked with a triangulation sign.

Descent from the summit.

Descent from the summit is done:

• Option 1 — via the western ridge and western couloir (1B category route).
• Option 2 — via the southeast descent couloir (non-categorized).

Section R3–R4. Ascent to the summit. Rocky ridge. Length — 600 m, steepness — 25–40°, difficulty level — 1, 2 category. Simultaneous movement on a shortened rope.

Section R4 on 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny). Triangulation sign.

Section R3–R4 on the pre-summit plateau and on the scree dome of the summit. Tma — destroyed rocky ridge. 1+, 2− category. Simultaneous movement on a short rope.

Section R2–R3: waiting for the crux. Ascent up the ice "Yazyk" board 3 m. Snow, ice. 2−, 2+ category. Alternating movement. Belay from an ice axe. In the upper part — ice screws are used.

Section R1–R2 to the "Gorloving". Passing the narrowing — "Gorloving" 100 m. Snow, ice. 1 category. Simultaneous movement.

Section R1 to the western couloir. Forming teams.

Section R0–R1 along the gentle slope through the valley. Not categorized. Simultaneous movement.

Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny). Route: through the snow-ice couloir of the Northern wall. Category — 2A (Snow-ice). First ascent — P. Bondaruk+3, 2004 g.

1159 (Dinozavr Glavny). Peak 1149 (Dinozavr Glavny). Route: through the Northern wall couloir 2A category (Snow/Ice). First ascent: 2004, L. Bondaruk+3

Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny). Route: through the snow-ice couloir of the Northern wall 2A category. (combined)

Peak 1159 (Dinozavr Glavny). Route: through the snow-ice couloir of the northern wall 2A category (combined). Section: upper couloir before reaching the pre-summit plateau.