Ascent passport.

Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier, junction with Druzhba glacier, Meridionalny ridge, section 7.16 of the "Classifier".
Peak Otkryty 5664 m via the southwest ridge.
Proposed category of difficulty: 3A. First ascent.
Height difference: 924 m (by altimeter).

By height: 4740 m — 4860 m (120 m) — category 1, slope 20°, 4860 m — 5450 m (590 m) — 3A — 3B category, slope 40°–50°, 5450 m — 5664 m (214 m) — 2A category, slope 25°–35°. Average slope 40°.

Ice screws used: 5 pieces.
Climbing hours: 12, 1 day.
Descent from the summit via the ascent route.
Team leader: KIRCHBERGER DANIEL.

Team members: 1. MULSER ROBERT;

RIESER CHRISTOPH;
FOELSNER THOMAS;
FOELSNER TOBIAS MARKUS;
IRETZBERGER LUDWIG;
KENTNER MANFRED.
Departure to the route on August 11 at 04:00.

Reached the summit on August 11 at 16:00. Returned to camp on August 11 at 20:30.

The entire team is from Austria.
A report and photos made by the team are attached.

Assessment, rating: ABC — Camp 1. Ascent through the South Inylchek glacier to the confluence on the left with the Razorvanny glacier. At 4450 m and coordinates xxxxxx we set up ABC (8.5 km from BC).

From ABC in a southerly direction, down the Druzhba glacier to the southern slope of Peak Otkryty. At 4740 m with coordinates xxxxxx we set up Camp 1 (4.3 km from ABC).

Section BC — ABC:

Good glacier condition
Good ice
Many streams in the glacier
Few crevasses

Section ABC — Camp 1:

Numerous crevasses
After noon, the snow softens, rope usage is necessary
Debris falls to the foot of the peak
Avalanches do not reach here
Generally, no significant danger

Section Camp 1 — Summit:

For 120 m of height: scree, easy rocks (UIAA1+)
From 4860 to 5450 m: snow/inclined ice, average slope about 40° (short steep sections up to 50 m, up to 55°), no pure ice
From 5450 m: slope 25–35°, dangerous crevasses, not steep pre-summit plateau

Possible dangers: