Tuyuksu 1Б Kat. sl. s per. Tuyuksu

Оpi­sа­nie mar­shruta. Ver­shi­na Tuyuksu na­kho­dit­sya v Ma­lo-Al­ma­tins­kom ot­ro­ge na yugo-za­pad ot od­no­i­men­no­go pe­re­va­la vy­so­toi 4100 m. Snez­no­le­do­vyi gre­ben s pri­chud­li­vy­mi snez­ny­mi kar­ni­za­mi so­edi­nya­et ee s mas­si­vom Ig­ly Tuyuksu. Na se­ve­ro-za­pad ot­kho­dit skal­ny­i gre­ben s rez­ki­mi pe­re­pa­da­mi vy­so­ty.

Zna­chi­tel­noe o­le­de­ne­nie na­blyu­da­et­sya na:

• se­ver­nykh sklo­nakh,
• za­pad­nykh sklo­nakh.

Yuzh­ny­e sklo­ny sil­no raz­ru­she­ny. Vo­stoch­ny­e sklo­ny, spus­ka­yush­chie­sya v sto­ro­nu ush­che­lya Le­vo­go Tal­ga­ra, po­kry­ty osy­pya­mi i uchast­ka­mi sil­no raz­ru­s­hen­nykh skal.

Puth pod­kho­da k pe­re­va­lu Tuyuksu opi­san v mar­shru­te na ver­shi­nu Po­grebets­ko­go. Ot pe­re­va­la vos­khozh­de­nie na­chi­na­et­sya po shi­ro­ko­mu se­ve­ro-vo­stoch­no­mu grebnyu. Na vo­stoch­nuyu sto­ro­nu ego svi­sa­yut mosh­ch­ny­e kar­ni­zy (os­to­rozh­no!).

Che­rez 70 m gre­ben ne­skol­ko po­ni­zha­et­sya, sta­no­vit­sya snez­nym, s uchast­ka­mi lyog­kikh skаl, а che­rez 200 m do­sti­ga­et­sya klyu­che­vo­e me­sto mar­shruta — 5-met­ro­va­ya le­do­va­ya sten­ka. Zdes v za­vi­si­mo­sti ot so­sto­ya­ni­ya grebnya ne­ob­kho­di­mo:

• Na­ve­sit ver­yov­ku dlya spus­ka i pod­yo­ma
• Is­pol­zo­vat le­do­rub ili le­do­vyi kryuk

Che­rez 50 m ot sten­ki pod­khod k lyog­kim skal­am i po nim — na ver­shi­nu s yuzh­noi sto­ro­ny. O­na pod­ni­ma­et­sya nad greb­nem na 120 m i pred­stav­lya­et so­boi na­gro­moz­h­de­nie skal­nykh glyb. Vre­my na vos­khozh­de­nie — 8–9 ch, iz nikh 3,5–4 ch na spusk.

Per­vy­mi pro­lo­zhi­li mar­shrut na Tuyuksu v sen­tyab­re 1943 go­da in­struk­to­ry shko­ly gor­noi pod­go­tov­ki v so­sta­ve:

• K. Stre­ka­lov,
• N. Kri­ven­tsov,
• A. Tom­berg pod ru­ko­vod­st­vom Yu. Men­zhu­li­na.

Re­ko­men­da­tsii:

1. Ko­li­chest­vo uchast­ni­kov — ne bo­lee 6 che­lo­vek.
2. Is­khod­ny­i bi­vu­ak na mo­re­ne led­ni­ka Mo­lo­dёzh­ny­i.
3. Vykhod s bi­vu­a­ka v 6:00.
4. Sna­ryaz­he­nie na grup­pu 4 che­lo­ve­ka:

• ve­ryov­ka os­nov­na­ya — 2 × 40 m
• kryuk­ya le­do­vy­e — 2 sht.
• mo­lot­ki — 1 sht.

Av­tor: Zhu­nusov B. Is­toch­nik: Ki­ga «Al­pi­ni­st­s­kie ma­ru­shru­ty. Za­i­li­iskii Ala­tau». Chast 1.