Sokol — 47

Idol 3Б[№8]

(A. Kuzmitskiy — I. Artyomov, February 2006)

R0–R1: 40 m, 6a, A1+. Leftwards up via an inner corner by easy climbing to a ledge with a tree, then up via a vertical crack by climbing with occasional aid climbing A1+, gradually deviating leftwards. Belay station on a ledge, on a juniper.

R1–R2: 40 m, 4a. Straight up. Belay station on one of the large trees at the base of the ridge.

R2–R3: 40–45 m. Easy traverse along the ridge, protection as needed. Belay station on a tree left of the ridge base.

R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5Б. Leftwards and up — traverse across slabs to a system of cracks, up along the cracks to a vertical wall (careful, crumbling rock) and through it to a ledge. Landmark — a huge tree on the ledge. Protection is easily arranged from climbing positions. Further along the ledge — traverse rightwards to the base of a leaning slab. Belay station on a large boulder.

R4–R5: 25 m, 6А+. Up along the right part of the leaning slab (huge gap between the slab and the wall) with an exit onto it, then up via a bolt to a plateau. Belay station on a large distinctive pine, 5–7 meters from the edge.

Recommended equipment:

50 m rope, 12–16 quickdraws, set of nuts, large camming devices and hexes — 2–3 pcs., slings — 2–3 pcs., hammers, pitons.

General impressions:

A short, interesting route with diverse climbing and various types of protection. The first rope pitch is category 5, so the route can be recommended for:

• those who want to warm up before tackling category 5 routes on the southern wall of Sokol,
• or, conversely, for those who want to try themselves on a relatively easy route with a challenging category 5 pitch.

Average completion time: 2.5–3.5 hours.